Dog leashes or leads are an extremely essential training tool or even just for general care and wellbeing for your dog. Whether you use your leash for taking you dog for long walks or only use it for teaching your dog right from wrong in the comfort of your back garden, a lead is always an important buy for you and your dog.
As a dog owner and a consumer, your choice of dog leads/leashes is as you might expect, huge. With so much choice and variations, choosing which lead or leash to use can be a bigger challenge than the actual training of your dog.
So what are the different kinds of leads and leashes? Well trust me there are thousands out there to choose from, I will only go through a few of the more popular types of leash as I’m sure there are many different types of leads being brought onto the market every week and it would be an impossible task to keep track of all of them.
In the next part of this article I will first go through the different types of lead then finish off with my personal views and preferences.
Extending leads
These do exactly what is says, they ‘extend’ away from the owner for a certain distance before running out of slack. With these leashes the owner has control of when to stop the lead extending further and can be used just like a normal leash if needs be.
Slip leads
These leads are a simple type of lead with a loop on both sides normally with and adjustable clip at the end that tightens when pulled or loosens around the dog’s neck for comfort when there is no pulling. Used by many for dog training.
Nylon leads
This is the cheaper option of dog lead, the simplest form of dog leash available, often causes rubbing and digging into your dog’s skin. Nylon leashes are best avoided.
Bungee leads
These leads help to eliminate the slack that other leads cause so that your dog does not trip over the leash and there is less pulling on your arm from a dog in the training process.
Leather leads
This is a popular type of lead that is comfortable for your dog and gives you full control of how far your dog can wonder. A good lead for training but can be tiring on your arm if your dog tends to try and pull you around.
My Conclusion
It is the preference of the trainer in hand at the end of the day but I feel leather leads are best for me and show your dog sum gentle authority when starting to train. Letting your dog wonder too far on walks can give your dog too much freedom and chance to misbehave.
If you are interested in training then I would go for a leather lead to begin, if you just like going for walks in the park or your dog is well behaved then you could maybe opt for an extendable leash.
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Does anyone know anything good information about dog trainning?I've got 4 dogs and 3/4 of them aren't trained and we've tried personal trainers and all of that good stuff. What do I do??
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thanx this will speed up my dog when she poos
In my opinion you made a few mistakes. First you removed the lead and let the dog go ahead of you up the stairs. Never let your dog go ahead of you without permission. Simply removing the lead is not permission. If you wanted to permit the dog to go ahead of you upstairs, you should have removed the lead, made him sit and then gave him the go ahead to move forward. Always lead whether it's physically , visually or verbally. Really, you should have led him up the stairs and then removed the lead only after you entered the room.
Second, you tried several different ways to get your dog to come. Which one did you want him to respond to? I guarantee he has no idea now. When he got the bone and you couldn't get him to respond to you, you had two options. Walk toward him, take the bone away and then escort him back into the house or leave him alone until he finishes because you don't want to create a chase game. If you do that, your dog will assume you like to chase him every time he gets a bone in his mouth…not a good thing.
To get your dog to come on command, you must first lead him. When you lead him properly, he will come without hesitating. Be calm, consistent and in control of each of your dog's movements and he will quickly learn what you want him to do. Soon, he'll be looking to you for the next set of instructions.
Eric,
From the bottom of my heart thank you for posting this Vid! I never had a dog and got an american bulldog. After scanning all of Vids yourS stuck in my head. My pup only “got busy” one time in the house as a pup. And because his bladder could not hold to the door from the kennel. Your get busy command is the best thing i have learned on this dog voyage!! THANK YOU!!!!
I've trained for 25 years. Obedience, show ring, service dogs, law enforcement and military.
Why take the chance of walking a dog without a lead?
What advantage is gained except it looks really cool.
You cannot plan or train for the unexpected. You can have an animal perfectly trained and all it takes is one sudden unexpected event to spook the dog for even an instant and invite disaster.
I have a 10 year old golden that has been trained since he was 12 weeks old. He will obey voice and hand commands.
He helps to train service dogs. He will walk for MILES at my side without hesitation. I use a lead with him on the street.
He's my friend and partner and I wouldn't risk his safety (as well as violating the law) walking him off the lead.
Granted, I use a lead more appropriate to a toy breed, but it gives stability and comfort to both of us. Like using seatbelts in a car. Not always needed but there when they are.
What if another dog would run up aggressively, friendly or not.
Your dog backs up 2 steps, goes into the street and is struck by a car.
Not worth the risk. Train them well and save the offlead adventure to the dog park or rural areas.
A well trained dog is a credit to the animal and to it's owner.
My dogs know exactly what is expected of them. They are happy, healthy and live long fulfilled lives.
Train well, always remain consistent, never punish when training, and have patience. Secrets to Dog Training, by Dog Trainer Expert, Daniel Stevens. It's a terrific book on how to train dog.
http://kingdom-of-dog.blogspot.com/
Good luck!
If you really want to protect your puppy, you'll take her to obedience classes first. A dog needs to be trained to be 100% reliable ON leash, that means come each and every time called, know how to heel, all of it, before you ever take the leash off.
No young puppy will ever be safe off leash – it takes time to do that kind of training. Your puppy will be safest if you take her to classes where someone can teach you how to train your dog. You don't want to take any chances, do you? Keep her safe!
wonderful advive!
loved this video too; i live in a very cold part of Canada and just got a puppy a month ago. I take him out regularily but sometimes when it is too cold it is hard to get him to concentrate. I will try taking the leash today and using a command word. Thank you for this video. I think if animal shelters used more behavioralists to offer free animal behaviour advice there would be less animals euthanised; animal shelters should try to help the frustrated pet owners as part of the process.
Only problem i have is that everytime i put the leash on my pup gets too excited and begins to pee before we even get outside… no idea how to deal with that all i do is just not even take him out anymore when he does that
I had/have (say have because its not 100% fine) this problem with my little chihuahua believe it or not.. took me 3 months. By any chance do you get aggravated? I noticed as soon as I stopped being pissed at her, she got the message relatively quickly. Anyway, for what I did
I simply walked her twice a day, once in the morning, once at night, I followed the same route every single time, so she was bored, knew every smell there, and had nothing to do. This led her to simply follow me. Also, if you choose to start from scratch, a good technique I learned a little too late was this, when starting the walk, make sure you leave the house, and/or the gate first, dont even allow the dog to follow you out, he stays in the house until you invite him, and then if he doesnt behave, back inside the house you go, wait a few minutes, and try again, takes a while, but worked with my other dog, who i can, and have, had on a 20ft leash, and wont leave my side on walks, he doesnt even care if a cat is lying on the sidewalk 2 inch from his face
What I did when she got in front of me, was yank back on the leash sharply, but gently, so I didn't hurt her, just got her to back up. I also had the rest of my family walk infront of her, so she knew, even if she was slightly infront of me, she was in no way the leader. One thing to be sure of, if you live with your family or anyone else, make sure they are with you, not against you, as my entire family was against me training my dog this way, calling me dog nazi etc.
Either way, stick with it, stay patient, be sure of what you want, and give him no other choice. If all else fails, professional help is always good, someone out there will be able to help.
Well, you could try-every time she pulls quickly turn around and walk in the other direction with her. Then as soon as she pulls turn and do the same thing. This will show her that she wont get to go the way she wants until she stops pulling. And make sure you have good treats so when she stops pulling you can reward her. Also try a front clip harness, it pulls the whole dogs body not just their throat, that way it doesnt hurt them and you have more control.
GOOD LUCK
Good choice of words haha. Thank you for the vid. Do you happen to have any on getting your puppy to actually go outside and walk with you?
DAMN LOVE UR VIDS
Guten Abend, Yo LO, and thank you again!
Sounds like a couple of things:
1. You're moving a little too fast in your training, allowing him out in front of you when he doesn't have a clear idea of what the command means.
If he stops to look back at you, keep walking right up to him, past him, "gee" him around that corner (repeating the command the entire time), praise him as he comes with you. Once you are moving in a straight line again, slow down and urge him out ahead of you once more. I do a lot of running to catch up and correct, and then falling back behind when I'm training individual dogs to pull — it's a good workout!
2. You need to work to "wean" him off getting a treat for responding to you, so that he is no longer expecting it.
Frankly, I've never used a clicker to train my sled dogs, and I've never given them treats for gee-haw…for this exact reason. I don't want the leaders on my 8-dog team turning the team back to me just because they think they'll get a treat after they turn a corner.
Give the command (from either beside or behind him) — even if he glances right, praise ("good gee!"), if he leans right, more praise, if he goes right, more praise, pats, etc. Encourage him to keep moving the entire time. You don't want him to stop for a pet or a treat. The goal is to keep moving ahead of you regardless.
This would be much easier to demonstrate in person. I hope I haven't confused you more than I've helped!
good advice. i lost my puppys collar and have been letting him go out without a leash and ive had nothing but problems. makes sense
We got our puppy 12 days ago and this is working GREAT! Thank you!
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Have someone teach you how to use a prong collar…the pulling will stop in the first few minutes and training will become alot easier since there will be no need for hard corrections.
A harness is not made for training dogs, it is made for horses and dogs that are actually pulling and encourages that behavior.
A halti is dangerous as well…have you ever seen a dog hit the end of a leash wearing one? No pretty.
Hope I helped.